Nyhetsrapporter om alpin klättring

Athol Whimp lost

The sad news of Athol Whimp death is hart breaking. For me the team Lindblade- Whimp was pure inspiration. I have to admit I not only have huge respect for them. I admire them. To me they are all I think alpinism is about. The book Expeditions is one of the best climbing books I have ever read. The number of stunning lines they climbed and the visionary style in witch they approach there objectives in remains a benchmark for every aspiring alpinist to follow.

The attempt on the North Face of Janu was one of the coolest failures of modern alpinism. Sadly the line was later exploited in a national project to climb all imposing big walls in the Himalayas.

But for me I think the route they established on Thalaysagar is one of the climbing stories that has captured my attention the most. That and the Norwegian route on Trango established in 1984 is what have largely driven me to be so captivated by the mountains. Its a sad month for cutting edge alpinism.

R.I.P

Athol

http://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=10788098
 
Polacker toppar G1 vinter

http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=20686

Polackerna Adam Bielecki och Janusz Golab har toppat G1 vintertid.

Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen och Nisar Hussain är fortf på väg upp på sydsidan. De försöker sig på en traverse och ny rutt.

Nu återstår bara Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat och K2 gällande första vinsterbestigningar på 8000m.
Polackerna (Hajzer) har redan bekräftat BP inför nästa vinter.
 
Winter G1

Tragiskt nog sa kommer vi nog aldrig mer fa se nagot av Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen och Nisar Hussain som är saknade pa efter sittt försök att na toppen av G1 via en ny led pa sydsidan.

R.I.P
 
Ja, verkligen tragiskt och alltid lika overkligt när man följer en expedition under en längre tid och den slutar så...

Editorial: the price of knowing great men


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Posted: Mar 16, 2012 01:37 pm EDT

(Tina Sjogren) They say that life is about choices. Tom and I had different options when we met. Acing tests at Sweden's Harvard Tom could have worked in a bank helping people get out of their homes. An ambitious kid at Swedish Television, I could have become famous for interviewing people famous for being famous. We would have been rich and admired in our community.

Instead we took to the world. In all its glory and all its hardship, damn the money. Along the way we set up ExplorersWeb and got to know some of the world's greatest girls and men.

We became parts of their lives. Along with the shots of routes and tents, they sent us pics of their weddings, kids, and pets. Behind the official interviews there were off the record mails, with their dreams, hopes, doubts and pains.

When we lost them, we lost brothers.

Since last weekend I have been unable to shake off images of Gerfried's and Heike's wedding on an Austrian mountain top. He named his first daughter Sagarmatha. I've been worried, angry, and sad.

And it's not the first time. Meanwhile, in their comments our community made sure that hope was last to leave the mountain. Things like that make my choice worthwhile. I'm proud of our tribe.

I don't know the last thoughts of Gerfried, Cedric and Nisar. I don't know if they even ever had any choice at all. The paths of our hearts are not always the easiest or the most fruitful, or the most wise.

All I know is that losing people who truly shine is the most painful. I guess that that's the price of having known them.

Källa: http://www.explorersweb.com/opinion/news.php?id=20718
 
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Sova ute en natt i månaden

Anna och Anna har hittat det bästa ”lifehacket” någonsin – och upptäckt många naturreservat i sömnen.