Sökresultat

  1. Petyak

    Ny bultning på Rebel Yell, Vårdberget?

    If one climbs sport routes, the bolts must not be considered as key points of the climb. And not focusing on bolts is an important part of training for sport climbing. Then, the safety and effort needed to do the clip are major factors. Sometimes they contradict each other :-) On longer routes...
  2. Petyak

    Ny bultning på Rebel Yell, Vårdberget?

    If one applies the generic bolting rule to avoid a ground fall: 2.5 + 1 + 1.5 + 2 + 2 +2 = 11m. So, 6 bolts should be enough for 12m. But in reality, it all depends on the route. A ledge or any other larger sticking out structure, and the count should start all over: 2.5+1+1.5 ..., plus often...
  3. Petyak

    Soloklättring

    New test set-up for anyone who wants to try rope soloing in Stockholm! at Lilla Vårdberget http://www.sverigeforaren.se/index.php/Lilla_V%C3%A5rdberget I just put up the mother of all anchors (terminology from...
  4. Petyak

    Tips ang borttagning av bultar

    "kemiskt trä" spakel finns i flera färger. Så kan du välja det efter vad som passar bäst för din klippa :-)
  5. Petyak

    Repkompis i Stockholm

    Hej Alexander I can always try and squeeze some extra climbing into my schedule. I prefer sport routes, but can as well do trad, bouldering, ice, even drytooling :-) And I live in Tullinge. You can call me at 0707396324. Peter
  6. Petyak

    Köpa frinds i USA

    BD Camalot C3: http://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-camalot-c3-p-423.html 53.99 BP = 664 kr ( http://www.x-change.se/ ) http://www.northstar.se/prod_show.php?art_no=camalotc3series 670 kr Ska man spara typ 5 kr och beställa från England?
  7. Petyak

    Var är klättrarna?

    The second statement is not entirely true. On quite many occasions during the last indoor season, we were climbing rope almost alone at both Klätterverket and Karbin. While the bouldering areas were always fully packed with folk, and not only climbing but just hanging around. And this is...
  8. Petyak

    Fler att klättra med i Stockholm

    Kolla din e-post. /Peter
  9. Petyak

    Varför klättrar klättrare?

    Let me reply with a citation from an old movie Conan the Barbarian: "...Mongol General: But what is best in life? Mongol Soldier: The open steppe, fleet horse, falcon on your wrist, wind in your hair! Mongol General: Wrong! Conan, what is best in life? Conan: To crush your enemies, to see...
  10. Petyak

    Tunaberg - Luftfinger

    To place a nut, one needs to have it with, right? In most cases, 5 bolts in 10m would mean a sport route. In sport climbing, it makes very little difference whether it's 5 or 7 bolts you clip, or the fact that you have 7 today where it was 5 before, so far as the clips don't hinder the moves...
  11. Petyak

    Topprepsklättring

    Fjärdhundra Some easy routes with top anchors on ALL of them, 2min to go around and plenty of trees on the top to abseil from to reach the anchors, where needed. A bit of driving from Stockholm though.
  12. Petyak

    Förstabestigarens rätt - Vad tycker du?

    is that those 5 guys do go and fix things, for real, stealing time from their jobs their families etc. While we the others just chat and use someone else routes and works, no matter original or rebolted.
  13. Petyak

    Förstabestigarens rätt - Vad tycker du?

    From Kalymnos bolting policy (http://www.kalymnos.gr/webweaver/climb/eng/sectors.html): "Our aim is for the routes here to be as safe as possible so that climbers can concentrate on the technical difficulty of the routes without worrying about risks to life and limb." "Always put the first...
  14. Petyak

    Förstabestigarens rätt - Vad tycker du?

    Yes! And to complete your nice collection of typical examples: Skevik, Voodoo and a pair of other routes nearby. There one has double bolts almost all the way: one old + one new, and yet there is a risk of high ground falls before the first bolt is reached, and all the same with the second...
  15. Petyak

    Lilla Vårdberget?

    My only point here is when you copy info from old Stockholmsföraren, sometimes it's better to drop obviously outdated things. Or do you have to be exact? What was the agreement with Svadängs och Björnerstedt guys? Many drawings and descriptions from 1996 Stockholmsföraren look too nice and...
  16. Petyak

    Lilla Vårdberget?

    This is a perfect example which shows how copying word-by-word from old Stockholmsföraren can be simply misleading. "...Th om Glasnost tycks ytterligare en led finnas i form av en fast bult och en bb, men vi vet ingenting om den!", that's what they wrote in 1996!! Per, with all respect to the...
  17. Petyak

    Inomhusvägg-Smittkälla?

    - Can I contract aids when climbing indoors? - No, not really. But on a climbing trip to Spain or Greece - a week without your mom and dad watching you - yez, easily!! Climbing outdoors, that's the real danger :-)
  18. Petyak

    dan osman....som solar....(youtube)

    Re: Att vara ordblind kontra skriva på mitt sätt. I must apologize, Anna, if my question made you angry or unhappy. I didn't mean any insult. I have always believed, and still do, that rock climbing is a sport of very modest, even simple folk. Simple clothes, simple words, simple foods...
  19. Petyak

    dan osman....som solar....(youtube)

    Anna, are you dyslectic or something? If not, why does your writing look like fly shit? [Ändrat av Petyak 2007-07-06 kl 23:49]
  20. Petyak

    Skeviksgrotta, Värmdö - klättrar någon där?

    Skevik: 30 dagars statistik http://www.8a.nu/eng/new/search2.php?RemoveFuture=on&Gender=Male+%26+Female&Crag=Skevik&GradeType=gte&Order=date+DESC&TimeFrame=31&ScoreType=0&Action=SearchScore&HideForm=1

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