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Jepp, lite info på Sverigeföraren är alltid en bra ide. På riktigt farliga orensade linjer kan det va svarta bandet eller en borste på första bulten. Jag kräver inget specielt med det, utan bara säger till att all climbing here is done on your own risk.

I can only say about my own practice. Many really steep lines require bolting up before one can even start doing any sound clean up. I declare any such route (bolted by me) as a "closed project" until I finish up the cleaning of it and climb it - one way or another - to be sure that "it holds"...

Huvudleden i Skevik är ett måste. Graden är snarare 7 eller 7- men leden är välsäkrad och fin fin!

On granite, it is very difficult to find a route that would be both safe and easy to climb. Most easier routes (5a-6a) around Stockholm go on slabs, often with many ledges, corners etc. Many bolts or good nut placement possibilities can make it look well protected, but the safety is often just...

http://www.8a.nu/forum/ViewForumThread.aspx?ObjectId=11752&ObjectClass=CLS_UserNewsComment&CountryCode=SWE

Probably OT. I think that the feeling that your partner will be able to take your fall, ANY of your falls, is extremely important psychological factor in climbing. So, I'd not hesitate not a minute to say goodbye to a partner whose belaying technique might rise my doubts, even if the reason...

Griprest kommer med någon instruktion som visar hur man ska skära

Finns det gatubelysning?

The actual risk maybe hard to estimate. What can be estimated though is a sociological factor. For example. You might enjoy some occasional free solo rock climbing, on a good day, and on some all familiar route which is also 2 grades lower than your current redpoint level. There may be...

I wonder what her family would reply to this now, after what happened. By promoting the idea that risk is unavoidable part of alpinism we create such Big Brother next to us. Sweden is no Slovenia or Spain, most people here dump all kinds of climbing into the same pile: Örnberget or Everes...

And it will remain so if we keep promoting such ideas - "Risk is the fee to learn these lessons. The cost is not negotiable. It is a price that, for now, I pay gladly" (Steve House). Why should I be ready to pay with my life, or with lives and well-being of those dear to me for whatever...

Mike, googla på "Scaffold Hook" . /Peter

http://www.mounteverest.net/expguide/dream.htm

http://www.mounteverest.net/ http://www.everestnews.com/

I think it was. The second bolt was too high. I had never tried this route before. But when I was climbing it two days ago, I was thinking over any possible scenario. It would be a ground fall even with perfect rope work of the belayer, even if cliping the rope in only when the harness is...

So we did in Skevik. 1st bolts on all routes are at least 4m above the groung, and some are even higher. Climb or die :-)

This is true. One can clip at least one of two upper bolts from Lysmaskidyll. Actually, the exit on Lysmaskidyll is easier than that on Rebel Yell. By the way, my feeling was that the correct grade for Rebel Yell should be 6b+

! @David I was there and had climbed the route. What I can say is that the first extra bolt is not that important. But the second new one is! If one had missed the clip (second old bolt) due to whatever reason, it'd have been a ground fall for sure, a schamk from some 5+ meters.

[[ If you are too weak for the route, you won't be able to climb it. Nothing else. You give up after several falls (or many hangings on top-rope), not after you break your ankle because you miss the second clip 7m above the ground. And what kind of purity of nature are we taking about? We...

Top-rope is just fine if it's not too steep. Climbing a long roof on top-rope is rather poor option. At some places, you'd need to walk a kilometer to put up a top-rope.