pepsi can kök
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Erik Bergqvist; sa:Slängde ihop ett i går kväll... Ett problem jag råkar ut för är dock att vid överfyllning (ändå inte speciellt mycket) så "kokar" spriten ur längs skarven och brinner på marken (eller på tältduken)
Nån lösning?
Man kan bygga in en "behållare" i den av mittendelen, rymmer kanske något mera och den brinner "snålare"
http://www.garlington.biz/Ray/YACCS/index.htm
"Enhancements
The basic stove seems to work fine with up to 1/2oz (1 Tablespoon) of alcohol. I actually use a smaller amount (~1/4 oz) which is enough to warm a pint of water to about 135 to 150*F, which is all I need it to do. Others have had success with larger charges of fuel. I have compared the efficiency of this stove vs other designs and there doesn't seem to be much difference (with up to 1/2oz fuel).
If you want to use more than 1/2oz fuel:
If your cooking needs dictate that you burn more than about 1/2 ounce alcohol at once, I'd go the "extra mile" and add an interior wall to the stove. If you do this you have, in essense, the anti-gravity design built with one can, but without the careful sealing. It takes a couple of extra minutes, a stapler and a needle to do this. Here is what you need to do:
* When you cut the can in half, be a little more careful and cut closer to your 'top' line. Your objective is to leave enough aluminum from the center of the can to cut a strip 1.25" wide for the complete circumference.
* after cutting the top and bottom pieces, carefully cut a 1.25" wide strip from the center section of the can. Take the time to draw lines and cut carefully.
* take this strip of aluminum, fashion it into a cylinder and slide it up into the groove inside the top of the can.
* hold this strip together with your fingers, pull it out of the top, and staple it together about 1/4" down from the top.
* Take the strip, and use your scissors to cut 1/4" long slits, about every 1/4" around the bottom of the strip (the rim of the cylinder furthest from the staple).
* Slide the strip into place in the top and assemble the stove. Push the top and bottom of the stove together as tightly as possible, then run the back of your scissors around the seam to make sure it is lying flat and there are no tears in the bottom.
* Take a sharp pin and punch pinhole jets into the top about every 1/2" around the circumference of the stove, just above the seam.
* With this modification, the stove burns longer with a more even flame. I get 4+ minutes from 1/4oz of alcohol and higher final water temps.
Other things worth trying:
* Cutting the top out cleanly (Posted by Rambler of the Lightweight Backpacker):
For me a can opener does not work well cutting out the top as it did when cutting out the bottom of the original pepsi can stoves. A 2" hole saw fits the can top ridge circle pefectly. Holding the saw cutter by hand rather than attached to a drill and then turning the can and drill in opposite directions by hand soon cuts out the top cleanly. However, it is best to use this method before cutting the can in half, ie. after removing the tab, the next step is to remove the top. A key instruction to a successful stove is to be careful to make the slits 1mm above the shoulder. Using the guiding line is a useful tip. Thanks to rgarling for an easy way to build an effective stove.
* You could try making more slits, perhaps every 1/3" inch. (Probably speeds up burning.)
* Or fewer slits, perhaps every 1/2". (Probably inhibits burning.)
* I have tried adding a thin layer of fine steel wool around the bottom of the tabs before assembling the two halves. I thought this would wick alcohol between the stove walls shortening ignition time. So far my versions of the stove have ignited quickly even without the steel wool, so I didn't notice much in the way of improvement; however, if your stove is a slow starter, you might try this.
Things that don't work
* Build a very tight stove (cuts to 1mm below shoulder, bottom 1mm above shoulder and pressed inward over the shoulder to hold stove together) and then add pin-hole jets as necessary (just above the shoulder) to increase the speed of combustion. Problem: alcohol doesn't seem to find these jets. Perhaps huge (deoreDX-stove sized jets would work).
* Raise the top a little to move the pot further from the flame. I made a stove with a 1.75 inch tall top (instead of 1.5 inch) and cut slits .75 inch long. This keeps the slits below the bottom rim, but since the top is taller, the pot is further away. In testing this idea, the alcohol vapor tends to follow the contour of the can from the seam up to the can's shoulder, where it ignites. Little if any improvement here... "
Lästips
ANNONS
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Tackar! Ska genast (i morgon) testa det.
Re: Bensin-kök ???
Bensin (och fotogen) måste förångas och det kan man inte göra genom att koka bränslet, som man gör i ett spritkök. Men varför inte köpa ett klassiskt Svea kök http://www.optimus.se/products/svea/ Det är inte det lättaste och inte det enkjlaste att sköta, men eftersom det varit med sedan slutet på 1800-talet så är det ju välprovat, dessutom är det ju vackert.
j_stellan; sa:
Bensin (och fotogen) måste förångas och det kan man inte göra genom att koka bränslet, som man gör i ett spritkök. Men varför inte köpa ett klassiskt Svea kök http://www.optimus.se/products/svea/ Det är inte det lättaste och inte det enkjlaste att sköta, men eftersom det varit med sedan slutet på 1800-talet så är det ju välprovat, dessutom är det ju vackert.
Re: Re: Bensin-kök ???
Hmmm... finns det nåt annat sätt att förånga saker på än att koka dem?
KLAGER; sa:
Hmmm... finns det nåt annat sätt att förånga saker på än att koka dem?
