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Patagonia is all about approaching and conditions. It's a good thing to remember that only thing you hear from the super climbers are the success stories. I've now failed 8 times in total on the approach to Fitzroy with two different partners. Three times I've been as far as the Brecha and only...

Almost no winds but cold (isotherme 1500-2500) promised for 11th and onwards. The Franco will be in the sun from 7 AM to 2 PM. If it's too windy or cold at the Breche you could consider doing one of the couloirs on Guillaumet. It's only one hour hiking from the Paso. The left couloir looked...

The plan changed. We'll be in El Chalten from Feb 2nd unti Feb 24th. It'll be my second time and Olli's first. Actually Olli hasn't climbed alpine at all but he's done the El Cap few times. It'll be the most perfect training for using the axes... :)

Glowacz was there in 2007, too. We were bivying in Paso with him and weather turned so everyone came down. The Red Pillar of Mermoz was very popular among the better free climbers. Other "trade routes" were Whillans on Poincenot, Franco Argentine on Fitzroy, Supercanaleta on Fitzroy and the...

They say Royal Flush is out of condition a lot. It's either iced up or wet. http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/lineadieleganza/

The plan is alive and kicking but we haven't still bought the plane tickets. I hope to do that within few weeks or so and after that it'll be true. Which route you're planning on Fitzroy? Most frequented routes would be Franco Argentine, Supercouloir and the Casarotto pillar. Franco Argentine...

The internet cafe is a sure bet. The climbing in El Chalten is pretty much like climbing in Chamonix in summer with the exception that you don't have the cabin lifts. First thing in the morning you check the weather forecast and if it's proper you can start getting ready for hiking and climbing...

El Chalten has plenty of internet cafes but if you want voice coverage sat phone will be nicer. There should be phone boxes in town but I never used them so I don't really know. The current trend is that people camp in town and hike all the way up if weather forecast gets better. There are...

This was all new information for me. Thanks! I think we'll take the horse, too. If we pay 2x1500€ for flights I think we can afford 100€ for the horse. :) The lady gave me a permit! I suppose the key was looking very miserable. Also she got tired of being at home and I said I'll take 5 months...

Do you have topos for anything else but the three towers? Fortress, Shield etc. Any other tips regarding logistics? We will be climbing there next winter.

I have all Piola books (the two mentioned and an older one). Are you looking after some specific routes or? Send me email at sampsa@patagonia.fi