Bumblies in Bohuslän

[Pietro_2003]

My wife and I thought we'd get in a few days climbing at Bohuslän during Midsummer. We have never been there before so are in need of a bit of info.

We haven't climbed for 4 years so will only be looking for easy stuff (4-5, Australian 10-15) - trad or sports doesn't really matter, but my wife would prefer the 'security' of bolted stuff. Is there an area that anyone could suggest that might suit us that has a social camping area near by?

We are looking for a cruisy experience of being outdoors, nice views, camping at a campsite with other climbers to share stories round the camp fire etc.

Svar gärna på svenska, det e inget problem.

 

[Slan]

Hi.

Happy to see that you´re intrested in the best climbing in scandinavia.

But unfortunately there isn´t really any such climbing as you´re looking for.
Bohuslän is famous for it´s midrange (6- to 7) trad-climbs and bolted routes are hard to find, and when you find them, there really hard to climb.

Midsummer is also quite a bad choice, because the place will be so crowded by "svenssons" that you will have a hard time getting around.

But if you can stand the above and are not afraid of climbing toprope on your own anchors, then Bohuslän is great.

sincerely

 

[achtminus]

Camping:
Bohusstugan är nog det ni söker efter, vid midsommar så kommer det nog vara en hel del andra klättrare där. Bohusstugan är en väldigt enkel camping som sköts av den lokala klätterklubben.
http://www.svenskidrott.se/Organisation.asp?WCI=wiKlubbKassaNews&WCU=674671

Som Slan skriver så finns det väldigt lite klättring i de lägsta graderna i Bohuslän. Men några få ställen finns det, kanske "Lyse Kyrka" i första hand.

http://www.bohusbergen.se/Pages/Locations/lyse/lyse_default.aspx

Ni kommer nog att behöva åka mellan olika ställen. Mer info här:
http://www.bohusbergen.se/Pages/Locations/Locations_Default.aspx

Inne i Göteborg (Utby/Fjällbo) finns det också en hel del klättring i lättare grader.

Generellt finns nästan ingen bultad klättring i Sverige under grad 6, eftersom de flesta klätterbara klipporna är granit eller gneiss och väggturer på dessa stenarter måste vara rätt flacka för att det skall bli lätta leder; och eftersom vårt våta klimat och rena luft leder till att allt flackt blir väldigt mossbeväxt.

God tur.

 

[Pietro_2003]

Great, thanks for the info!

Seems like I'll be lugging the trad gear with us. There weren't any bolted routes where I used to climb either so leading or top roping is nothing new, we just want the easy stuff to make a come-back on.

Regarding a guide - is it enough to use the online guide at sverigeforaren.se or is it really a 'must' to get the printed "Bohusföraren 2002"? We will only be there for a few days.

Quick question - are there any multi-pitch climbs, at easier grades, to be found? I know very little about Bohuslän yet, and am still to read everything online.

Tusen tack!

 

[Slan]

Hmm. i think it depends a bit on you´re future plans, do you find it reallistic that you´ll be coming back to bohus or is it just this one time?

If you´r living close to bohus, or just think you might go there again. Buy the book!

The info on internet is very incomplete, i think you´ll find it hard to get a grip of the area with that.
People in the hut will probably help you alot if you ask around.

Bohuslän is single-pitch though. there are a couple of multipitch routes, but those are at max 80 meters, or multipitch due to ropedrag.
One classic multipitch would be "flaket" on the crag of "möhättan"

Some advise for easy crags:
Lyse kyrka (AKA Brappersberget)
Kleven (Outside Smögen, wich will be very crowded that weekend)
Rågårdsdal
Ävja
Galgeberget (has some exelent easy-ish routes on the south-side)

have a nice visit!

 

[Pietro_2003]

Wow, in only a few posts I've got all of the info I need. The tips of easy crags is very handy, saves heaps of time googling.

Thanks again.

 

[Micke_Y]

Hej

Som Petter skriver så är de nämnda bergen klockrena i det registret.
Jag villl bara lägga till ett berg och det är Nordens Ark. Där finns en del fina turer.

Och som sagt inhandla gärna föraren över bohuslän det verkar ju som du inte har nåt problem med svenskan. Det sparar massa tid och letande.

 

[hebbe]

Just one note regarding access: make sure to find out the latest information regarding parking and other access issues, since this can sometimes be a sensitive issue in Bohuslän. What's in the guide book can be outdated, so make sure to look at "Svenska Klätterförbundets" site (http://www.klatterforbundet.se/accessdatabasen.php?id=44&subsida=2&lan=O) (I think Sverigeföraren pulls its access info directly from there) or at the signs at the climbing hut.

That said, Bohuslän is a fantastic place to go climbing, and you will surely have a great time!

 

[Pietro_2003]

Thanks guys. Yep, I found the access info a few days ago. Just hope now that the weather holds up for the weekend.

Climb on!

 

[Pietro_2003]

Now for the big question - is it going to be miserable there now there is a bit of rain expected over the weekend?

Do the climbs dry up relatively quickly or stay wet and drippy throughout the day. Without having the guide yet I say we would be starting out at Lyse kyrka and setting topropes.

Cheers.

 

[acura]

Om solen tittar fram vid Lyse så borde de torka upp relativt fort, klippan ligger i söderläge och är mörk. kan bli väldigt varmt där om de är fint väder, kanske för varmt;-)

 

[Pietro_2003]

Tjenare,

Det blev en mycket lyckad helg. Skoj med klätterfolket runt eldstaden vid klubbstugan!

För att avrunda tänkte jag bar nämna de bergen vi besökte som vi tyckte funkade bra för toprep i det låga registret.

Brappersberget (Lyse kyrka) - easy access. Arrived late and were a little rushed and found that some of our chosen lines where a bit difficult to top rope due to lack of anchors or not long enough static rope. Although, as I was desending for the day I noticed some bolted hangers (borrbultar) a meter or so from the cliff edge which may have been for top belaying or top roping (will have a closer look next time).
Rågårdsdal - easy access med bra toprep möjligheter.
Örnklippan - easy access. Ett par leder som vi tyckte funkade bra. Trevlig omgivning.
Fedjan - easy access. Klättrade inte (regnade den dagen) men såg riktigt kul ut för låggradiga toprepsturer.
Ävja - besökte inte klippan men såg i föraren att det finns många 4or och ett par 5or. Förutom en 5a på 10 meter är de flesta längre än 35m - topprepa blir nog svårt, toppsäkra är ju ett alternativt.

I definitely recommend getting the Bohuslän Klätterguide. As the crags (that we visited) were pretty small, it is easy to pack up and go to another if the area doesn't suite you.

Cheers all!