Heijsan!
Förlöt att min svenskan är engelska.
I came last Friday from Sarek being there 8 days alone. Here very short summary which may help others to arrange their own hike in Sarek this autumn.
Last boat from Ritsem to Änonhjalme departed 19.15. It left 45 mins time to get more clothes on and things in order. (If I remeber right the timetable will change some time in autumn) The weather was chilling and it was raining time to time. Akka massive couldn't be seen behind the clouds.
Staying in crowded Akkastugorna did not attract me even though the rain was falling harder. So I continued over the Vuojatätno bridge and climbed up the hill after that. There I could find quite good places for tent with nice view down to Vuojatädno valley.
Good and clear path to the pass between Sjnjuvtnudis and Västopparna departs from the Padjelantaleden quite soon after the second bridge. It includes on quite steep but short climb to the pass itself. After Sjnjuvtjávrásj near Rákkásjåhkåthere are some good places to put up the tent as well as on the shore of the Suottasjåhkå. The former is good bas camp for Akka-climb which I could not do because clouds were as grey carpet below 1000 meters and it was snowing and icy water.
Over Suottasjåhkå I could go with my hiking boots on - but only barely jumping on the stones with a risk of getting water in my boots. I did it about half a km from the place where the river meets Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå. After this I decided to cross all the bigger creeks with sandals on while its less risky and eventually takes less time that to search the optimum crossing place where one might get over with boots on.
Nijäkskájdde was sand hills one after after another and quite nice to walk even without any paths to follow. I got good tent place little before the river coming down from Nijákvagge. I was optimistic to get better weather after two rainy chilling days to be able to get up to Niják.
My optimism was rewarded and about 12 o'clock I started my day tour to Niják. I started to ascent from the north side of the Niják vally before the valley (or dry river bottom) in north-south direction coming down on the southern side of the mountain. At first is very blocky and quite steep ascent but not difficult. After 1200 meter the ascent is quite easy but on my tour it was already quite snowy too. After 1500 m altitude the mountain was just covered by snow. The top was really worth of day visit! In a clear day one can see the whole Sarek and is in a front row spectator for Akka massive. You can bet I took some pictures ( I had bot digital cameara and my Canon EOS 600 with me). The drop down on North side of Niják is also impressive 1000 meters in 1 km! (Some say that biggest relative altitude difference in Sweden exists from Akka. May be so, but not within so short distance!)
Remeber to take enough water with you while going up since it is not clear that there would be water around after 1000 meter altitude on Niják. My day visit lasted 4 hours 45 mins (2,5 up 0,5 up and rest descending). You can do it quicker but when you are alone one watches his step more closely.
On the Niják-day I moved my tent further in Ruohtesvágge. Just after renvakststugan (which was open) there are tent places but I wanted to go further down from the watershed. I required me to go another 4-5 kms when I found acceptable overnighting place on the roots of Boajsátjåhkkå. Upper on the slope there is very peculiar looking natural monument made of slate stone. Nice place to have a break and cook some food under its shelter. Crossing Smájllájåhkå was easy on its upper reaches but near the path I could not find place to get over with hiking boots.
Path to Mikkastugan was quite dull to walk when clouds are down and you can not see the surroundings. By the way, for some reason I tended to lose the paths once in a while in Sarek. That may be because I did not follow them too much anyway. In some places - espacially when you are in the cloud it is nice to have the path. Be aware though that you know where you are on the map all the time since the paths may vanish - especially if you happen to choose reindeer trails which some times on the other hand show good ways to cross difficult terrain.
Mikkastugan seemed to be like a camping area having about 10 tents around it. Two older men lived in the hut made some measurements but did not seem to have pace in their work than we here in cities! Here you have luxury of toalett and can call help if you see it necessary. Since Smajllájåhkå can be quite muddy (or not exactly muddy but full of fine silt) it is better to get cooking and drinking water from the little streamsouth-west from the hut crossing the path going to Guohpervágge. Having fresh water nearby there you probably have the best tent places around the Mikkasugan also.
In the morning sun showed its face for a while and I get my clothes and tent dry. (Wind dries clothes much better than sun though). I had put my tent behind the bridge where there is big plateau. It was on my way to the Bierikjávrre. I had cought the flu and was behind my schedule. So the Saltoluokta had turned out to be better target than Kvikkjokk. Especially because of bad weather which was absolutely denying my route through Ahkájiegna. So there was a clear path following the lower slopes of Tjågnåris towards Pielastugan. Only Tjågnårisjågåsj required to get my boots of while crossing the rivers. Very interesting looking path went up to Snávvávágge clinbing up quite a bit on the steep slope of Bielatjåhkkå. I heard that there would be good tent places and nice view to Rapadalen in its other end. Anyway Rapadalen in rain after rain did not attract too much.
Little later there is another choice: a path to Basstavágge which has been some kind of tabu to Same people in old time since they have taken their route to Rinim traditionally by getting round Ähpar from its northern side. I saw many people going in that way while I was choosing my way to the west side of Bierikjávrre. I heard that the delta of Alep Basstajåhkå has quicksand and is therefor inappropriate place to try across the river. Pielastugan was of from the path but I saw people exploiting its toalett. The west side of the Bierikjávrre is somewaht wearing with some blockfields and diverse terrain. On sunshine it would have been quite a nice place I can imagine. I put my tent just on opposite of Bierikvárásj. Later I saw some people putting tent near the precipe on the south-east slope of Sarvatjåhkkå. While tenting I just looked my map and wondered how easy it would be get to the top of Vuojnestjåhkkå and from there to Spijkka if it would be good weather. It seems that it wouldn't be too hard but you never know it just by looking the map...
Next morning it was raining once in a while and clouds were below 900 meters. I continued up to Vuojnesvárásj following the path. When I got up I could see only 20 meters ahead of me and it was really wet. Ther I lost the path again and I trsusted to my intuition and continued forward finding the path again when it was getting down on the north-west slope. I had put my GSM on just in case of some GSM coverage to get a word to my family because of the change of my route. Surprisingly my GSM beeped with SMS message when going down towards Rengärde in Guhkesvágge. I do not know if the base station is on Gasska Gierkav or Roavvesjkutjovárásj but the signal was from Stora Sjöfallet I could bet. (Later the GSM coverage was found, e.g., near Nienndo and on the hills north-east from renvaktstugan besides Njirávjågåsj).
On the bridge of Guhkesvákkjåhkå I was happy to have that bridge since even with the low water the river was lookin rather hostile. After the bridge there were not too many good tent places in the blocky terrain. However, I saw two people camping besides one of the lower branches of Alep Nienndojågåsj near the path. Lulep Nienndojågåsj I barely get over without getting my hiking boots totally wet. I said totally, because in the rain the little by little started to feel rather wet also inside. I do not know if the Goretex layer in my 5 year old boots have started to deteríorate or has the water found its way some other way to get in.
However, after the crossing I saw a hut which I noticed to be the "Renvaktstuga" marked in the map. I decided to have my next tenting there. I took a direct route to the hut but how big mistake it was. The "bush vegetation" marked on the map is really difficult to get through. It was over man's height and the terrain beneath it was full of nasty wet holes where I get my hiking boots full of water. Better to be humble and take a longer route on the southern side of the bush vegetation. Near the hut there are some tent places and stream where one get fresh water.
My plan was to go through the pass between Vuovres and Gähppo towards Saltoluokta. But in the morning it was raining as it was raining whole night. The clouds were in the 800 meter level and I decided to take straightest route to Sjöfallsstugan keeping my route at the lowest altitude possible. So I directed myself towards Sluggá's north side and down to Rissájávrrevia the north side of Tjågåsj. i must say that between Renvaktstuga and Slugga there is 3-4 kilometers of nastiest possible terrain to go when the rain is falling. Small (10-30 meter height) rocky hills with absolutely miserable block terrain and ponds one must get around making the length of the route double. And when its raining the sharp edged stone blocks varying from refridgerator size to single family house size were really difficult to traverse in a safe way. I would recommend avoiding that leg of my route. Nearer to Slugga it was very easy terrain and it was easy to go down on the northern slope of Tjågåsj and find the path to Rissájávrre. Ok, but the game was not over yet. One must get over the river between Rissájávrre and Pietsaure. The river looks quite broad and even in this low water time very lively. I checked the river half a kilometer towards Pietsaure and came back and finally noticed that the place for safest crossing resides just besides the lake on 627 m altitude. There the river makes a 90 degree curve and the flow of water comes not with its whole strength to the crossing place. many others seemed to use that place also. the river was about 40 meter wide in the crossing place and in its deepest to my crotch. Then it was quite an easy route to Sjöfallet despite of the fact that I managed to loose the path once again.
Having everything soaked wet I was dreaming to get to hut and get my clothes (as well as other things) dry again. The path to Sjöfallsstugan felt to be longer than I had ever expected since I was quite tired. The path was not in a good shape in some places near the shore of the lake. Anyway, I reached the hut eventually and for my surprise I noticed it was nowadays shelter cabin without any service. Fortunately it was open but unfortunately not too much logs were left to burn and to get the hut warm and the clothes dry. Anyway sleeping in the house felt really good! I called to Fiskeflygt to get me over the lake by boat next morning at nine o'clock. It costed 70 krones but being happy to get back to civilisation I gave 100. Saltoluokta would have been in some way better place to end the hike, but this lonely hut where you could be alone in peaceful really beautiful location was also nice way to end the trip this time.
Sorry that even the short summary got this long...
Will be back - hopefully with little bit better weather...
Olli
Förlöt att min svenskan är engelska.
I came last Friday from Sarek being there 8 days alone. Here very short summary which may help others to arrange their own hike in Sarek this autumn.
Last boat from Ritsem to Änonhjalme departed 19.15. It left 45 mins time to get more clothes on and things in order. (If I remeber right the timetable will change some time in autumn) The weather was chilling and it was raining time to time. Akka massive couldn't be seen behind the clouds.
Staying in crowded Akkastugorna did not attract me even though the rain was falling harder. So I continued over the Vuojatätno bridge and climbed up the hill after that. There I could find quite good places for tent with nice view down to Vuojatädno valley.
Good and clear path to the pass between Sjnjuvtnudis and Västopparna departs from the Padjelantaleden quite soon after the second bridge. It includes on quite steep but short climb to the pass itself. After Sjnjuvtjávrásj near Rákkásjåhkåthere are some good places to put up the tent as well as on the shore of the Suottasjåhkå. The former is good bas camp for Akka-climb which I could not do because clouds were as grey carpet below 1000 meters and it was snowing and icy water.
Over Suottasjåhkå I could go with my hiking boots on - but only barely jumping on the stones with a risk of getting water in my boots. I did it about half a km from the place where the river meets Sjnjuvtjudisjåhkå. After this I decided to cross all the bigger creeks with sandals on while its less risky and eventually takes less time that to search the optimum crossing place where one might get over with boots on.
Nijäkskájdde was sand hills one after after another and quite nice to walk even without any paths to follow. I got good tent place little before the river coming down from Nijákvagge. I was optimistic to get better weather after two rainy chilling days to be able to get up to Niják.
My optimism was rewarded and about 12 o'clock I started my day tour to Niják. I started to ascent from the north side of the Niják vally before the valley (or dry river bottom) in north-south direction coming down on the southern side of the mountain. At first is very blocky and quite steep ascent but not difficult. After 1200 meter the ascent is quite easy but on my tour it was already quite snowy too. After 1500 m altitude the mountain was just covered by snow. The top was really worth of day visit! In a clear day one can see the whole Sarek and is in a front row spectator for Akka massive. You can bet I took some pictures ( I had bot digital cameara and my Canon EOS 600 with me). The drop down on North side of Niják is also impressive 1000 meters in 1 km! (Some say that biggest relative altitude difference in Sweden exists from Akka. May be so, but not within so short distance!)
Remeber to take enough water with you while going up since it is not clear that there would be water around after 1000 meter altitude on Niják. My day visit lasted 4 hours 45 mins (2,5 up 0,5 up and rest descending). You can do it quicker but when you are alone one watches his step more closely.
On the Niják-day I moved my tent further in Ruohtesvágge. Just after renvakststugan (which was open) there are tent places but I wanted to go further down from the watershed. I required me to go another 4-5 kms when I found acceptable overnighting place on the roots of Boajsátjåhkkå. Upper on the slope there is very peculiar looking natural monument made of slate stone. Nice place to have a break and cook some food under its shelter. Crossing Smájllájåhkå was easy on its upper reaches but near the path I could not find place to get over with hiking boots.
Path to Mikkastugan was quite dull to walk when clouds are down and you can not see the surroundings. By the way, for some reason I tended to lose the paths once in a while in Sarek. That may be because I did not follow them too much anyway. In some places - espacially when you are in the cloud it is nice to have the path. Be aware though that you know where you are on the map all the time since the paths may vanish - especially if you happen to choose reindeer trails which some times on the other hand show good ways to cross difficult terrain.
Mikkastugan seemed to be like a camping area having about 10 tents around it. Two older men lived in the hut made some measurements but did not seem to have pace in their work than we here in cities! Here you have luxury of toalett and can call help if you see it necessary. Since Smajllájåhkå can be quite muddy (or not exactly muddy but full of fine silt) it is better to get cooking and drinking water from the little streamsouth-west from the hut crossing the path going to Guohpervágge. Having fresh water nearby there you probably have the best tent places around the Mikkasugan also.
In the morning sun showed its face for a while and I get my clothes and tent dry. (Wind dries clothes much better than sun though). I had put my tent behind the bridge where there is big plateau. It was on my way to the Bierikjávrre. I had cought the flu and was behind my schedule. So the Saltoluokta had turned out to be better target than Kvikkjokk. Especially because of bad weather which was absolutely denying my route through Ahkájiegna. So there was a clear path following the lower slopes of Tjågnåris towards Pielastugan. Only Tjågnårisjågåsj required to get my boots of while crossing the rivers. Very interesting looking path went up to Snávvávágge clinbing up quite a bit on the steep slope of Bielatjåhkkå. I heard that there would be good tent places and nice view to Rapadalen in its other end. Anyway Rapadalen in rain after rain did not attract too much.
Little later there is another choice: a path to Basstavágge which has been some kind of tabu to Same people in old time since they have taken their route to Rinim traditionally by getting round Ähpar from its northern side. I saw many people going in that way while I was choosing my way to the west side of Bierikjávrre. I heard that the delta of Alep Basstajåhkå has quicksand and is therefor inappropriate place to try across the river. Pielastugan was of from the path but I saw people exploiting its toalett. The west side of the Bierikjávrre is somewaht wearing with some blockfields and diverse terrain. On sunshine it would have been quite a nice place I can imagine. I put my tent just on opposite of Bierikvárásj. Later I saw some people putting tent near the precipe on the south-east slope of Sarvatjåhkkå. While tenting I just looked my map and wondered how easy it would be get to the top of Vuojnestjåhkkå and from there to Spijkka if it would be good weather. It seems that it wouldn't be too hard but you never know it just by looking the map...
Next morning it was raining once in a while and clouds were below 900 meters. I continued up to Vuojnesvárásj following the path. When I got up I could see only 20 meters ahead of me and it was really wet. Ther I lost the path again and I trsusted to my intuition and continued forward finding the path again when it was getting down on the north-west slope. I had put my GSM on just in case of some GSM coverage to get a word to my family because of the change of my route. Surprisingly my GSM beeped with SMS message when going down towards Rengärde in Guhkesvágge. I do not know if the base station is on Gasska Gierkav or Roavvesjkutjovárásj but the signal was from Stora Sjöfallet I could bet. (Later the GSM coverage was found, e.g., near Nienndo and on the hills north-east from renvaktstugan besides Njirávjågåsj).
On the bridge of Guhkesvákkjåhkå I was happy to have that bridge since even with the low water the river was lookin rather hostile. After the bridge there were not too many good tent places in the blocky terrain. However, I saw two people camping besides one of the lower branches of Alep Nienndojågåsj near the path. Lulep Nienndojågåsj I barely get over without getting my hiking boots totally wet. I said totally, because in the rain the little by little started to feel rather wet also inside. I do not know if the Goretex layer in my 5 year old boots have started to deteríorate or has the water found its way some other way to get in.
However, after the crossing I saw a hut which I noticed to be the "Renvaktstuga" marked in the map. I decided to have my next tenting there. I took a direct route to the hut but how big mistake it was. The "bush vegetation" marked on the map is really difficult to get through. It was over man's height and the terrain beneath it was full of nasty wet holes where I get my hiking boots full of water. Better to be humble and take a longer route on the southern side of the bush vegetation. Near the hut there are some tent places and stream where one get fresh water.
My plan was to go through the pass between Vuovres and Gähppo towards Saltoluokta. But in the morning it was raining as it was raining whole night. The clouds were in the 800 meter level and I decided to take straightest route to Sjöfallsstugan keeping my route at the lowest altitude possible. So I directed myself towards Sluggá's north side and down to Rissájávrrevia the north side of Tjågåsj. i must say that between Renvaktstuga and Slugga there is 3-4 kilometers of nastiest possible terrain to go when the rain is falling. Small (10-30 meter height) rocky hills with absolutely miserable block terrain and ponds one must get around making the length of the route double. And when its raining the sharp edged stone blocks varying from refridgerator size to single family house size were really difficult to traverse in a safe way. I would recommend avoiding that leg of my route. Nearer to Slugga it was very easy terrain and it was easy to go down on the northern slope of Tjågåsj and find the path to Rissájávrre. Ok, but the game was not over yet. One must get over the river between Rissájávrre and Pietsaure. The river looks quite broad and even in this low water time very lively. I checked the river half a kilometer towards Pietsaure and came back and finally noticed that the place for safest crossing resides just besides the lake on 627 m altitude. There the river makes a 90 degree curve and the flow of water comes not with its whole strength to the crossing place. many others seemed to use that place also. the river was about 40 meter wide in the crossing place and in its deepest to my crotch. Then it was quite an easy route to Sjöfallet despite of the fact that I managed to loose the path once again.
Having everything soaked wet I was dreaming to get to hut and get my clothes (as well as other things) dry again. The path to Sjöfallsstugan felt to be longer than I had ever expected since I was quite tired. The path was not in a good shape in some places near the shore of the lake. Anyway, I reached the hut eventually and for my surprise I noticed it was nowadays shelter cabin without any service. Fortunately it was open but unfortunately not too much logs were left to burn and to get the hut warm and the clothes dry. Anyway sleeping in the house felt really good! I called to Fiskeflygt to get me over the lake by boat next morning at nine o'clock. It costed 70 krones but being happy to get back to civilisation I gave 100. Saltoluokta would have been in some way better place to end the hike, but this lonely hut where you could be alone in peaceful really beautiful location was also nice way to end the trip this time.
Sorry that even the short summary got this long...
Will be back - hopefully with little bit better weather...
Olli
