Har du en Beta pa Macintyer Colton pa Grand Jorasses sa släng upp den ASAP.
Dett är en beskrivning fran en bestigning i November:
We had both Neige-Glace-Mixte and Alpine club descriptions and neither
seemed very useful for the headwall section and we got off route.
Essentially it is dead easy routefinding until the headwall.
1) up the big icefield.
2) there are 3 big couioirs. RH is Japanese couloir, it was fat and
inviting, but a dead end.
The other 2 both go to the 2nd snowfield, the middle is CM.
3) There are 2 couloirs between 2nd and 3rd snowfields, left one is
CM, right is Alexis. There was one hard steep ice pitch here. Alexis
was not formed when we were there.
As for the headwall, we had some tricky mixed climbing up dubious rock
here, went the wrong way and got benighted.
(We were trying for hut-hut in one day and had no sleeping bags).
We had trouble correlating it to the guidebook description, which was
essesntially 'mixed climbing to the left to gain crest of walker
spur'.
The 'extreme dream' finish is popular, and we weren't sure where that
was either.
Will describe it best I can:
On far right of snowfield is the Japanese couloir, which was dry, and
appears to lead you to a world of pain.
Left of that are two thin couloirs, we took the RH one, climbed it ok
for a pitch, then had another loose face pitch which was clearly off
route, it started got dark, we spent the night and in morning did a
sideways abseil to left to get into correct gulley. There was one
pitch from here to the ridge crest which was an obvious snow arete.
Was nice climbing up the crest to the summit.
So I can only summise that the correct line was to our left. There was
one thin gully just to our left, but it didn't seem to go anywhere.
There was a larger gully further left and lower which I think was
correct, but at the time we thought was 'extreme dream'.
From the description there is a hard pitch up a wall in that gully,
but we didn't climb it as we were off route.
By aiming for the (at the time) snow arete above the tower, you end up
in the right place.
