Pompe till Everest utan O2!!!!!

Anders V sa:

Most people questioning are not compeeting for sponsor money and will never climb a 8000+ summit. Me included. You don't have to be among the 8 in a olympic 100m final to questioning Ben Johnsons come back.

There is a "new" breed of climbers that doesn't bother to learn the climbing basically. The summit is the only thing that matters, the style is insignificant. The only reason they got their view is 'cause they're standing on shoulders of giants (guides, sherpas, HAPs), but they don't acknowlege it. If you just are frank with the conditions of your climb it's ok for most people.

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Kal-P-Dal sa:

1. Tycker du på allvar att Pompe gjort något som kan jämföras med Ben Johnson och vad han gjorde?

2. Är Pompe representativ för den typ av nya klättrare som du beskriver?

3. Har hon burit sig så illa åt, att det är ok att önska att hon misslyckas i fortsättningen?

4. Kan man inte leva på sina egna meriter?

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Anders V sa:

3. Har jag aldrig sagt. Bara att önska lycka till och hoppas hon lärt sig något. Tror få önskar att hon misslyckas.

4. Det är precis det det handlar om. Egna meriter. Om man planerar allt, läser in sig ordentligt, väljer ut utrustning, bär sin utrustning, fixar alla göromål och gör sina egna bedömningar om säkerhet och navigation är det riktigt bra. Om man outsourcar delar, t ex använder fasta rep eller hyr en guide, är det oftast också ok. Om man bara är ärlig med vilka som är egna meriter och inte så är det bara ett fåtal puritaner som gnäller, men de är få. Men om man tar åt sig äran för andras meriter tappar man i trovärdighet. En hel del skriver om "sina" expeditioner när de köpt in sig på ett färdigt kommersiellt koncept. (Inte sagt att just Pompe gjord det.)

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Kal-P-Dal sa:

You can´t be seriuos!
This is not about placing bolts at all.
This is more about the way the more experienced and established climbers diminish new climbers achivements. Especially if the new ones are good and a potential competitor of sponsor money and medial attention.

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SampsaJ sa:

Sometimes it's good to question things beforehand, too. Especially if someone has a reputation of bullshitting.

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SampsaJ sa:

It seems to be very diffucult to get the message through. With bolts I was speaking about the analogy. I'm saying that if people get some critisism before their project, they might actually learn something from it.

And the second part of your message I don't understand at all. I've had both sponsor money and media attention in the past and I'm most certain I don't want any of it in the future. Generally speaking sponsors understand very little about climbing and they wish you do things you really shouldn't do. Carrying the satellite gear and making the dispatches isn't really worth the trouble.

It's not about experienced and new climbers. You know, the questioning the same for all posers no matter what their skill level is. Cesar Maestri and others have all had their fair share of it. False claims are a bit more common among guided climbing, though. I don't know the details of Pompe's ascents but I do know claiming the summit of Shishapagma is one of the most common lies. If guided clients claim they've done Shisha it's more like a rule than an exception that didn't do the summit proper.

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Kal-P-Dal sa:

She has already got tons of complaint for that climbing. But it is really not ok to raise an opinion against the next try. Better wait until it is done. If you not have other reasons of course. Like envy, anger, fear of competition or something.

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